Tuesday 15 July 2008

Jaisalmer, the Golden City

Just an extra report from Jaisalmer before I leave tonight for Jodhpur. Last night, after a rather nice curry, I was walking up the hill to the main gate of the fort in the darkness of a hot evening. The Hindu temple just below the gate had got into swing and was becoming very animated; sunset seems to have an effect here. It is perhaps the relief after many hours of energy sapping heat. However, the sound was reverberating around the ancient market square from a typically raucous public address system, with the quality of a vaguely eloquent fog horn. But, even with the lack of any refinement, it created just the kind of atmosphere you would expect in a place so exotic.
Below there is short video of the Hindu devotees singing their devotional music, and under that some later pix of (and from) the Mandir Palace outside the fort walls. This palace has gone the same way as many other Indian princely establishments and is now a very up market hotel. But not so expensive at about 35 Euro a night.


Cheers from Del

You Want Camel Trek?

Well, that’s the question I have been asked once too often. It’s hot and sultry here in Jaisalmer but compared with the sky high humidity in Delhi, its more bearable. I had one good nights sleep in Delhi but it’s not enough, so hopefully here in Jaisalmer I’ll get the sleep I need to catch up on.
The 18 hour train journey took me through the Rajasthan tourist hotspots of Jaipur and Jodhpur and across the desert to here. Looking at the map it doesn’t look like the well over 900km that it really is. While I filmed the passing shrub and desert land, sand was billowing up from the track creating a mini sandstorm.


Jaisalmer is a pretty unique place. The whole fort area is literally a living museum of things of yesterday. Today thousands of people live within the walls but only a few 100 years ago it was a thriving wealthy town on the main camel trading routes of Asia. The final decline came when India was partitioned in 1947 which created a closed border with the newly formed Pakistan. In wandering the narrow lanes and alleys it is easy to see where the money comes from now. Cafes, shops, restaurants and hotels all point to one thing – tourism. It is summer here and this is the off season so being a tourist can be a bit harrowing with salesmen of all kinds chasing too few travellers. But I think I can survive in this giant manmade sand castle.


















Street life in this far flung town is not symbolised by horrendous traffic jams because there doesn’t seem to be many cars here. It’s pretty laid back with only the odd scooter of rickshaw to deal with and even the ever present camels.

The temperature rises during the day, with a hot wind that carries sand everywhere. Not the kind of weather to be moving very much, or at all. So, quite happy to take things as they come. There is always tomorrow.



Family group on a railway station while travelling here and the entrance to Hotel Paradise last night. Cheers