Posted from superfast/cheap cyber cafe in M G Road, Calcutta. Extremely hot and a huge anti govt rally in progress.
The last several days have been a bit of a mystery. Early morning arrivals and late trains out add up to rather tiring days. Not having complete access to washing facilities, I am just happy that I packed 2 pairs of pants instead of the one which I almost did. However, after those late night departures and early rises, now in a hotel in Calcutta for which words don’t come easily. It’s a bit of a rabbit warren on the upper floor, the corridor and my room are both about 5.5ft high. But still it’s not expensive and you can get used to anything if you try. Its saving grace is that there is evidence of new plumbing in the shared minute shower cum toilet and a newness with the clean white paint and unblemished flooring. At least I do have a window, a tiny one behind the bed!
The good news is that I don’t stink and stick to everything anymore, but give it a few days and I’ll be back to square 1. So, what about Agra?
The tomb of an English officer in Agra Fort (circ. 1857)
This was one of those unfortunate episodes but I did, in the heat, manage to get to the massive fort overlooking the Jamuna River, and from the walls there is a superb view of the Taj Mahal a km down river. I hired the services of a guide here because he looked a kindly old guy and still very sprightly at the age of 84. After a couple of hours I made my way back to Agra Fort station and caught a very slow train to Agra Cantt station. The 7km took 45 minutes but no matter, I had a lot of time. I had planned to take a bus to a place called Marutha but tiredness and heat defeated me so the railway station with its up market tourist restaurant became my home until the train to Allahabad left that evening.
The Taj Mahal in the heat and haze from Agra Fort
mistermeena, the helpful man at Agra station
The sangam at Allahabad. 30 mil Hindus here last year.
On the train to Allahabad I got talking to a guy, Jitendra, and it turned out that he is a lecturer (political science) at Allahabad Uni, the 4th oldest in India, which the British founded in the mid 19th century. He invited me for a trip around the city the next day. Had a great time and saw the Nehru family house where Indira Gandhi was born and then to his Uni, which is now a heritage site. Jitendra is also heavily involved in building and setting up a new private business college 15km outside the city, in the countryside. It’s an impressive setting with a view of the Jamuna River. Finally, we went to the sangam (confluence of rivers) where the Kumba Mela takes place every 12 years. Some 30 million Hindus gather there at the Mela in Jan or Feb. A successful day ending with a good meal in a restaurant before getting back to the station.
The colonial building of Allahabad University
Jitendra in one of the almost completed classrooms
Bamboo supports for new concrete floor
Bathing at Babu Ghat, Calcutta
The night train only allowed me 5 hours sleep to Calcutta, and being somewhat unwashed it’s not hard to imagine what my priorities were. It was the usual routine of: getting to hotel area, fighting off hotel touts, choosing wrongly through sheer exasperation, washing disgusting clothes, and then having THE SHOWER. After that a few meals are needed to revive my weary body. Ok now but there isn’t too much time to see anything in this sprawling mass of humanity that is Calcutta. This afternoon I made acquaintance with the Calcutta Metro and found it useful for avoiding the blood sucking rickshaw men. Excellent metro. Maybe a further report from Bhubaneshwar after yet another night on the rails.
Flower seller at Kali Temple, Calcutta
The Nehru family home, Allahabad
And finally for your amusement, a video.
CHEERS FROM INDIA
The tomb of an English officer in Agra Fort (circ. 1857)
The sangam at Allahabad. 30 mil Hindus here last year.
Jitendra in one of the almost completed classrooms
